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How should I prepare before shopping for a spa?
First of all, you should prepare yourself for a lot of different theories and views from each manufacturer's product. There are varying schools of thought on the best way to build a hot tub. You need to listen carefully to these reasons on why to buy that particular product, don't take the word of a salesperson anduse your common sense!
Arm yourself with questions that are important to you, bring a pad and pencil and make sure you get the answers. Don't be afraid to interupt during a sales presentation if you didn't understand something. Make sure to check your local newspapers for sales in your area and keep your ear to the radio and the ads on television.
Visits to Home and Garden Shows, Carnivals, County Shows, etc. are great ways to cut down on time spent shopping around as most hot tub and spa companies will attend the bigger events.
How much does a spa cost?
Well, we've all heard the term "what it's worth and what it costs are two entirely different things". Spas and hot tubs range from as little as £4,000 to as much as £12,000 and more depending on a number of things including model, options and of course quality.
You should be able to purchase a good quality spa with most of the options you want, paying somewhere in the middle to top of this price range. "You get what you pay for" and what this spa is worth will far exceed what you paid.
What should I look for in a spa?
Always look for quality. You can find (or not find ) quality in every area of a spa. Here is a checklist:
Does it have a full floor? If yes, is it pressure treated wood, fibreglass or a thin plastic sheet?
How thick is the cabinet? (Some are as thin as board!)
How is the spa insulated? Most spas on the market are what's commonly called foam filled, meaning the spa cabinet to the underside of the shell is filled with foam insulation. The density of the foam may vary but they all operate on the same principle.
The problem with this design, we feel, is the fact that there is no access to any of the plumbing under the shell, not to mention leaving all your expensive equipment to the mercy of Mother Nature You see, with your pumps, heaters etc. on the wrong side of the insulation, they will not be protected during a power outage or extreme temperatures. We all know that heat travels upwards so why is it so important to have so much insulation down below? We know, most manufacturers are using the foam to support flimsy spa shells.
What we do at Arctic Spas, is insulate our floor and walls with a high density foam insulation and do not foam our spa shell. This allows us to utilize the heat generated naturally by the motors to help heat your spa water. We also have access to everything underneath. The most vital place to have insulation in your home is in the walls and the attic so Arctic Spas have a thick quality spa cover on top. If you need to access the plumbing in the future for maintenance or upgrades when the new "gotta have it" spa technology comes out then it is easy with Arctic Spas eight door access.
What are the capabilities of the jets? Do they turn on and off individually? Do they adjust and can you remove them for service?
Is the filter easy to remove for cleaning? Is the filter cartridge a readily available universal style? Some manufacturers have created a monopoly on their cartridges as you can only purchase their filters at their price.
How are the pillows secured if they are fitted? Suction cups tend to tear out. Some are actually screwed into your shell making it tough to get behind for cleaning.
What type of covers are there? Remember that heat rises and the most important place to insulate your home, as well as a spa, is on top. Most manufacturers offer a standard 3" flat cover or a 4"x 2" tapered top. At Arctic Spas we offer the thickest most durable cover in the industry. Our covers are a 5"x 4" tapered cover. They come with a 3 year warranty. A cover will not last as long as the spas so make sure that you purchase a cover that's going to withstand snow loads, heavy pets, children and repels moisture. Covers cost between £150 - £400 so make a wise decision. How many times do you want to replace a cover?
What's the warranty? Be very careful here! Many manufacturers warranties are very creatively written using fine print to their advantage. Most warranties are pro-rated, use deductibles or have a standard flat fee before charging you for parts and labor. Always ask for copies of the fine print warranties before signing a deal and study them carefully.
How much does it cost to operate per month?
There are a lot of variables that determine monthly operating costs. Some of these variables include climate, bather load (how often the spa is used), filtration cycles, cost per kilowatt hour in the area, is it a 110v or 220v system and whether or not the spa is foam filled or recovers the waste heat off of the motors. As you can see there are many factors in determining your monthly costs.
Most spas monthly costs are about a 50p a day, which is pretty reasonable considering the benefits. If you can recover the heat produced by the motors to heat the water (as an Arctic Spa does) it is going to cost less. An avaerage of 50p a day is based on using the spa 30 minutes a day, 5 days a week in a cold Canadian climate!
If I purchase an ozone system with my spa do I need to use chemicals?
 It is a common misconception that ozone systems eliminate the need for chemicals in your water. Ozone generators convert oxygen (O2) to ozone (O3) using a number of different methods. Sanitizers, such as chlorine and bromine, neutralize or kill bacteria in your spa water. Ozone gas does the same job, giving us two sanitizing systems working in conjunction to achieve clean, safe water.
 Part of the weekly maintenance on a hot tub is testing the water for chlorine or bromine levels. Chlorine, for instance, has an ideal level between 1-3 parts per millions (ppm). As the chlorine kills bacteria, your chlorine level begins to drop so we need to add more in order to maintain the proper levels. We can avoid adding more sanitizer by using ozone to aid in the elimination of bacteria.
There are different types of ozone systems out there, which one do I want?
The most common ozone generator on the market is the ultraviolet (UV) lightbulb. UV light naturally converts O2 to O3. The ozone gas created is introduced into the spa water, using the venturi system, via a small jet usually located in the footwell of the spa. Being a lightbulb, this system will last approximately 1 year before it no longer produces ozone gas. As you can see, over time this system will continue to deteriorate.
Another system available, is what's called a corona discharge (CD) ozonator. Lightening naturally converts O2 to O3. A CD unit creates ozone by arcing, therefore simulating lightning, inside an enclosure. CD ozonators will create 100% ozone for usually 5 years or more. The ozone gas itself is again brought in to the spa using the venturi system. Something to think about with both of these systems, using venturi to move the ozone into the spa means this will only be accomplished when the spa pump is running. So either the tub has to be in a filtration cycle, requiring heat or someone has turned on the jets manually. Therefore, ozone will be pumped into the water approximately 8 hours per day.
A third system, designed by Arctic Spas, is called The Peak Ozone System. This system incorporates the CD generator and it's own 24hr circulation pump. We produce ozone using the corona discharge system. We then move the newly created ozone through an injector which "smashes" the ozone molecules into much smaller molecules. These fine ozone molecules are then transferred into a mixing chamber, which contains meshlike hydrostatic balls. These balls provide an additional surface area for the ozone molecules to adhere to which increases the amount of time the water is exposed to the bacteria killing gas. This solution is then moved into another chamber that allows any "off gas" to rise to the top of the cylinder, while the solution of ozone and water is moved through a dedicated jet into the spa. The off gas is then run through a charcoal filter converting it back to oxygen. As we know from carbonated drinking products, gas does not last very long in liquid as it rises to the top. Actually, ozone gas lasts in spa water for less than a second. By super ozonating the water in it's own chamber we greatly increase the odds of killing bacteria.
What sort of electrical requirements must I meet?
Aways check with a certified electrician. For most spas, including an Arctic spa, the required wire in the UK is 6 gauge 3 wire with a ground, a 32 amp breaker and RCD is what's needed to run a two pump system. But, please check with your local dealer and electrician for the requirements in your part of the world.
Do I need to pour a concrete pad?
Most spas on the market today do not have a full support floor on them and do require a slab to be poured. Many warranties will be voided if your spa does not have this support beneath. All Arctic Spas have full support floors. The tubs come standard with a pressure treated pedestal floor which allows you the luxury of using sidewalk blocks or patio stones as well as an existing patio etc. There is also an optional "Forever Floor" available on an Arctic Spa. This floor is constructed of fibreglass and gives you the option of placing the hot tub on the grass or level section of your yard.
The benefit of the Forever Floor is that you can move your spa around if you re-design your garden or you can take it with you when you move house.
Can I put it on my deck? Could I sink it in my deck?
Placing a spa on a deck is very possible assuming it can safely hold it's weight. Ask your salesperson for the dry weight of the tub, dimensions and water capacity (either in US or imperial gallons). An Arctic Kodiak model weighs approx. 1200 lbs dry, it holds 418 imperial gallons (10 lbs/gal.) giving us 4180lbs. This adds up to 5380 lbs. The Kodiak is an 8'x8' spa which translates into 64 sq. ft. Your deck needs to be able to support approximately 85 lbs/sq. ft. Make sure to consult with a licensed carpenter if you're going to tackle this job on your own.
Incorporating a hot tub into a deck is common. A couple of things to take into account are making sure there is access to the equipment and remember an Arctic has access doors on each side of the spa. Cut a hole roughly 18" wider all the way around the tub. Then use pull out type panels, that match the decking, to fill in these areas. Also, remember that you may not always be in this home and will either have to leave the spa behind or cover the hole. It is much safer to "countersink" the tub rather than have the decking come right up to the lip. The reason, it's much easier to enter and exit a spa while sitting on the lip and swinging your legs over than to step down into the water. Water will distort the distance needed to go to reach the first step and spas are slippery! So have a safety bar to enter and leave the tub or sit down on the deck and swivel.
How often do I need to drain my spa?
 Typically, a hot tub needs to be drained once every 3 months. This is just a guideline as this will depend on volume of water in the spa, as well as, bather load. To determine when a spa needs to be drained, a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter is required. TDS is the concentration of chemicals or solids in the water. Some spa dealers will have a TDS meter at their shop, though it is uncommon. A 350 gallon spa should be drained every 3 months. Use this number to determine when your spa needs to be emptied. There will be instances when you may need to change the water sooner than scheduled. The water may become to foamy, usually a result of either detergent remaining in swimwear after laundering or cosmetic products. The sanitizer levels in the spa may have been neglected and the water has become cloudy. This can sometimes be remedied but it usually takes more time and chemical than just draining and starting over.
How tough is it to maintain a hot tub?
It's not. Once a week, using test strips or a test kit, check the sanitizer level and pH level in your spa. That takes about 2 minutes. Then make any adjustments that need to be made. If the pH is low add pH increaser, if the pH is high add pH decreaser. If the chlorine level is low add more and if it's high open the cover and let some of it burn off. Simple? Once a month bring in a bottle of your spa water to test for other factors. Any dealer should be able to help and explain to you what needs to be added after their test.
Buyer Beware". What should I watch for?
There are some things to be wary of when you are out shopping.
Keep in mind that all these gimmicks are installed in a raised area on the spa lip in each corner of the tub. Somehow, we still need to cover the spa and to keep it insulated. You'll need a custom built cover, that the dealer will offer, which uses uninsulated "boots" to cover these raised areas. These boots cannot protect your gadgets from freezing. Furthermore, the cover itself will not create a good enough seal to stop heat loss. Remember, that the cover will need to be replaced someday and it will cost more for this custom cover if they are still being manufactured.
Warranties are important, so make sure you read the fine print, we can't stress this enough! Ask how long the manufacturer has been in business and will the dealer be there to assist you during your warranty period.
Make sure you buy from someone you can trust like a registered Arctic Spa Dealer and not just from someone with the best price. You might end up paying more in the end.
Watch out for spa leaders, that get you in a store for a "Spa and Gazebo package for £3995!!". Usually it's a completely downgraded spa and flimsy lattice gazebo that really screams at you to upgrade. Typically, you end up paying more than the spa is worth by the time you're done
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